Archive for February, 2010
Soap Making – the Disappearing Skill
February 25th, 2010 | 
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There are only two ingredients required to make soap, yet soap making can be a very time consuming and difficult project. In the old days, soap was made a couple of times per year, sometimes once a year. One of the reasons for not making soap more often was because it was a long-drawn out process.
The two items necessary to soap making are fat and lye. Any type of fat will work but it must be cleaned by a process known as rendering. The fat is placed in a large pot and allowed to melt. Any meat, gristle or hair will sink to the bottom as the temperature rises. The liquid fat is carefully ladled off and stored. If the fat you were using was from a pig those deep fried pieces of skin would be called crackling’s and were considered by many to be a delicacy.
The second item needed in soap making is lye. In the early 1900’s lye, in a dry form, could be found in almost every general store in America. Today it is not so easy to find. However, lye made from wood ash is called potash and can be made easily at home.
You will need two containers; one large one and a smaller one…the larger the better for the bigger one. A 55-gallon plastic barrel or drum is best for the larger container and a drywall bucket is large enough for the smaller one.
The larger container needs to be placed on a stable platform higher than the smaller one is tall. Gravity will do the most of the work. Into the large bucket you will place a layer of packed straw. You will then add ash from a wood fire. The ash from fruit trees and hardwoods will produce the strongest potash. Some of the old time soap makers would use only one type of ash. They learned that certain species of wood produced the strongest potash. The stronger the potash the better the soap will be.
About a gallon of water is then added to the large container. A small hole is put in the bottom of the bucket and the smaller bucket placed underneath. Some people allow the water to sit in the larger bucket before it’s drained off. A cork or stopper may be placed in the hole. Add a small amount of water daily until you have a working potash barrel. About a half a gallon will do. As the water drips down through the ash and straw it leaches out the alkaline chemicals in the ash. That is what potash is: a basic acid.
Acid when combined with fat produces soap. It’s a basic chemical reaction. The problem with making soap is the unpredictable strength of the potash. Potash suitable for soap making should be able to float a raw egg so that only a portion of the shell about the size of quarter should show above the liquid. If the potash does not float the egg it is poured back into the large container and allowed to drip through again. It takes up to a week or more to get a gallon of potash. Ashes are continually added to the larger container. Eventually the large container will need to be emptied and new straw and ashes added.
Once you have potash strong enough to float an egg you are ready to begin the time consuming job of boiling the potash and fat together until it reacts sufficiently to make soap. Determining how much fat to add to potash is the difficult part. Too much potash and you will be stirring the mixture over a hot fire or stove for many hours, too little and you will end up with useless fat. It is better to have too much potash than too little. The most commonly used ratio is 1:1. Equal amounts of both fat and strong potash.
The soap that you are used to seeing is not what this process will produce. Until salt became an inexpensive item all homemade soap was the consistency of jelly. Homemade soap of bygone eras was like today’s shower gel. To make soap hard salt must be added at the end of the process. The addition of salt allows the soap to set.
If you add salt to your soap mixture you will need to place it in a pan, box or mold to harden. If you do not add salt you can use any container to hold your soap. Just remember that it’s easier to dip the liquid soap than to pour so choose a container with a large top opening.
Ground herbs, nut hulls, scented oils and colorings can be added once the process is complete but before you pour the soap into your containers. Hardened soaps are usually allowed to cure for a couple of weeks. Once cured the new soaps are cut and ready for use.
C.L. Hendricks
http://www.articlesbase.com/crafts-articles/soap-making-the-disappearing-skill-708238.html
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Outdoor Fireplaces and Plans on Building One
When the weather is cold, there is always the need for heat in the outdoors. That is because you want to be able to carry certain activities outside the home even when it’s really cold outside. That way, you won’t be confined to your house. There are many occasions that you may find yourself needing some heat.
Sports activities.
Sports events continue to take place even when the weather is cold. Human beings need to exercise. So when it’s winter, some people like to get out of the house to ski, to skate, etc. Usually, exercise is enough to keep the body warm. However, when the exercise stops, that is when heat is needed to keep the body warm.
Camping and hiking.
The winter landscape is very different from landscapes in other seasons. Some people like to go for camping or hiking trips to enjoy the beautiful scenery. It’s when the campers or hikers stop to take a rest (or to sleep) that heat is needed.
Activities just outside the house.
Sometimes, you just find that it’s a good idea to get outside the house for a breath of fresh air, especially when you have been indoors for prolonged periods of time. For example, you may want to play some games outside the house or read a book. However, it is almost impossible to stay out for a decent amount of time when there is no proper heating.
The solution to all the above situations is outdoor Fireplaces. There are many different types of outdoor fireplaces. Some are portable, some integrated, and others attached for life. They are also powered by different energy sources. Some are powered by wood, some by gas, and others by electricity. The type of outdoor fireplace you choose depend on the type of activity that you are involved in while you are outdoors.
For instance, if you are in the habit of spending long periods of time outdoors in the cold doing some carpentry work, then perhaps it’s a good idea to install a full-fledge outdoors fireplace. Such a fireplace can be constructed from any fire resistant materials such as cast iron or masonry. These are highly durable materials that will usually last for a lifetime. Of course, they are also rather expensive to install.
If budget is a concern, you can also consider installing pre-engineered fireplaces. Such fireplaces are actually DIY fireplaces. In other words, you can buy the materials in a kit, and install the fireplace yourself. After that, you can decorate the fireplace yourself by covering it with bricks or other materials.
Finally, there are portable outdoor fireplaces. These can be moved around easily. Some can be attached or detached from fixtures. The benefit of having a portable outdoor fireplace is that you can always transport it another location, or you can store it away when it’s no longer needed.
Your plans for building an Outdoor Fireplace ultimately depends on your budget and your primary activity.
Gen Wright
http://www.articlesbase.com/diy-articles/outdoor-fireplaces-and-plans-on-building-one-689362.html
Fireplace Safety
If your fireplace is installed correctly, they should perform very well, safely and reliably. Fireplaces, of constant wear and tear, also have their own
time of malfunctioning. That is why fireplaces needed to checked regularly by contractors within a yearly period. For fireplace safety and security, here
is a list of to-do’s when installing, maintaining and using fireplaces.
For self installations, see of the fireplace complies with all building codes in the local government. This includes important requirements like earthquake
compliancy and hurricane compliancy. Try to see if the fireplace flue measures enough, typically at least 10% of the total area the fireplace occupies.
The flue must also be 1/8th the size of the fireplace opening for your chimney. Make sure that if your roof is plain, the chimney should be at a minimum
length of 3 feet. For added fireplace safety, make sure that the flue is tight and well-installed. Have a regular check up of the flue. It must also have a
smooth interior.
To have a child safety fireplace, the hearth must extend at the front of the fireplace with a distance of 16 inches into the room and 8 inches on each side
of the opening of the fireplace. Make use of material that is thick enough to withstand any sparks coming out of the burning wood or flame.Experts recommend
materials such as brick, stone, tile, concrete and other non-flammable and heat-resistant materials.
A brick or masonry chimney should be laid out on a firm foundation that is to be constructed below the frost line. Fireboxes built right on top of the floor
may cause it to crack. Chimneys should also be supported well as walls due to weight may crack and cause accidents at home. For woodburning fireplace safety
,construct concrete step board around the edges of the fireplaces to prevent flying sparks from burning wood to land on carpets and wooden floorings.
Place metal flashings to keep flues in proper place. You might also consider metal spark arresters commonly found in fireplace shops so as not to catch up
fire on trees and dried leaves on top of the roof.
If you are buying pre-made metal fireplaces, look for compliance certificates of store owners and seal of authenticity that are approved by the
Underwriters Laboratories or UL. These prefabricated fireplaces should be installed 3 feet away from the walls and use wall insulators if fireplaces
should come near walls under 3 feet. Installers usually place insulated material underneath, either sides and behind the fireplace. UL states that the
pipes of pre-made fireplaces should use no. 24 gauge steel sufficient enough to withstand the chimney. Chimney caps will guard its opening against animal
nesting and falling debris.
For maintaining fireplaces, regularly rake ashes to keep it in good condition. Make sure you wear dust masks. Repair cracks in the flue lining, bricks and
walls. Have your fireplaces checked by professional experts offering yearly contract.
To have fireplace safety operations, keep in house necessary fire extinguisher tools. Retrofit sprinklers, smoke detectors and other fire warning systems.
Refrain from placing rugs and other combustible objects near the opening of the firebox. Use only enough fuel or wood and avoid blazing fires.Gas fireplace
safety includes regular maintenance on pipes to see if there are leaks.
Never use kerosene, gas or other liquids that promotes combustion as fire igniters for wood burning. User real wooden logs and not saw dusts or old
newspapers to fuel wood fireplaces. Always keep damper open to help the fuel to burn well and prevent the accumulating effect of suffocating gas in the
room. Do not place papers on top of the mantle and even electrical appliances such television or electric lamp shade.
And remember to keep children away from the Fireplaces. Fire is a good attention-getter to children so warn and remind them constantly of the dangers of
playing with fire. Above all preventive measures that are applied from installing to maintenance, the dwellers are held to be responsible in bringing
fireplace safety.
Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta
http://www.articlesbase.com/health-and-safety-articles/fireplace-safety-723680.html
Residential Home Fires
About 82 percent of all fire deaths in 2004 resulted from home fires.fatal fires occurs at night when people are likely to be less alert. Half of home fire deaths in 1999–2002 result from fires reported between 10:00 p.m. and 6:00 a.m. Most structure fires are preventable.According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), in the year 2004.
In 1982, wood-burning appliances accounted for more fires, more fire deaths, and greater property damage than any other kind of heating fuel — about 140,000 fires, 250 deaths and $257 million in property damage. These losses represented 20 percent of all residential fires in the U.S., 5 percent of all fire deaths, and 8 percent of estimated property damage.
CPSC research indicates that most wood heating fires involve the chimney and not the appliance itself. The majority of these fires are contained within the chimney and cause no damage to the house. The Commission is concerned, however, not only about the chimney fires that did ignite other parts of the house, but also about the potential future hazard from the continued use of chimneys whose structural integrity has been compromised by a chimney fire. This is especially true in light of the fact that many contained chimney fires are not reported to the fire services; in fact, consumers may not even be aware that a chimney fire has occurred.
Therefore, the Consumer Product Safety Commission is issuing a special safety alert concerning chimneys used with woodburning stoves, Fireplaces, and fireplace inserts. The Commission urgently warns consumers to be aware of the potential fire hazards associated with these chimneys.
Now that the nation has entered the heating season, the Commission strongly urges you, if you have a stove or fireplace, to have the chimney inspected for any damage that may have occurred in the past heating season. If it is difficult to examine the chimney, a local chimney repairman, chimney “sweep,” or dealer can help. Have any damage repaired NOW.
Most fires involving either masonry or prefabricated metal chimneys occur because of improper installation, use or maintenance. The Commission staff has identified the following common causes of fires:
1.)Improper chimney installation too close to wood framing.
2.)Installation of thermal insulation too close to the Chimney.
3.)Improperly passing the stovepipe or chimney through a ceiling or wall, causing ignition of wood framing.
4.)Structural damage to the chimney caused by the ignition of creosote (a black tar-like substance that builds up inside the chimney in normal use).
5.)Structural damage to metal prefabricated chimneys that results in wood framing being exposed to excessive temperatures or leakage of potentially toxic gases to the interior of the home can take the following forms:
6.)Corrosion or rusting of the inner liners of metal chimneys.
7.)Buckling, separation of the seam, or collapsing of the inner liner of metal chimneys. (This can result from too hot a fire, especially in high-efficiency stoves and in fireplace inserts, or from a creosote fire.)
Structural damage also occurs in masonry chimneys, often associated with deterioration or improper installation of the chimney. The tile inner liner and the surrounding brick or block structure may crack and separate, perhaps as a result of the ignition of creosote that has built up in the chimney. Many old chimneys do not have a tile liner. If your chimney does not have a liner, the addition of a properly installed liner is advisable. Also, a clay liner should be sealed with refractory cement.
Even when the heating appliance is properly installed, people with either metal or masonry chimney systems should frequently check the chimney for creosote deposits, soot build-up, or physical damage. This involves only a simple visual examination, but it should be done as often as twice a month during heavy use. If you see heavy creosote buildup, suspect a problem, or have had a chimney fire, a qualified chimney repairman or chimney “sweep” should perform a complete safety inspection. They can arrange for any necessary repairs or creosote removal, which must be done before the heating appliance is used again.
“Commitment to Performance”
Accurate Home Inspection of Atlanta
http://www.articlesbase.com/real-estate-articles/residential-home-fires-701753.html
Rapolano: Desert Chimney Luxury Vinyl Tile RA-74
Congoleum Duraceramic Rapolano: Desert Chimney Luxury Vinyl Tile RA-74
Pacific Living Desert Tan Outdoor Fireplace, Model# 20.003.26
The Pacific Living desert tan outdoor Fireplace is a beautiful handcrafted outdoor wood-burning fireplace that adds charm and warmth to any backyard or patio. Fuel Type: Wood, Material: Composi…
Cougar Quiet Ash Vacuum – Black
The Cadillac of ash vacuums! Similar to the popular Cheetah II Ash Vacuum, the Cougar’s ultra-quiet design and superior cleaning power make this vacuum the best of the best. This patented machine is designed for conventional stoves, pellet stoves, and Fireplaces, and will make cleaning those pesky ashes a breeze! Please note, this unit is designed to pick up ashes once they have cooled. The nozzle of the hose is approximately 1″ in diameter and is not designed to pick up coals or granules of coal.
Log Carrier
Back by popular demand! This heavy-duty nylon Log Carrier gets wood to your Fireplace or wood stove without leaving a trail of bark behind. Fiberglass stays stitched into the side seams hold the carrier open, so both hands are free to load it with wood. Bring in the wood without the mess Closed ends keep bark and dirt from spilling out Fiberglass rods in side seams hold it open for loading Webbing handles help support the load Choice of Linen Tan or Hunter Green (open the menu to see the colors currently available)
Potomac Rock Electric Fireplace
Dont let the lack of a Chimney keep you from creating a cozy living space. This electric Fireplace makes even a newly built condo feel like a rustic mountain cabin. Natural-looking flame pattern and room-heating warmth create a cozy atmosphere. Realistic slate and fiberglass construction looks great in any room in the house. Built-in 1500-watt thermostatically controlled heater. On/off remote. Size: 4 4-1/2″ x 1 3-3/4″ x 3 8-1/2″ Found in Home Furnishings , Home Decor , Decorative Accessories , Fireplace Sets
Does anyone have installation manual or manufacturer specs for a Peacock wood stove?
My wife and I bought a Peacock Wood Stove and we cannot install it until we can provide the above referenced info to the city inspector. This stove was made in Baldwin, MI and we have contacted the manufacturer directly, but they no longer make the stoves, and do not have any info on them anymore. We have also contacted dealers across the state, and they have no such info either. Does anyone out there have this information?
Hi I just tried the usual routes for the above stove. No Luck I’m afraid.
Have you thought about going down another road.?
Patents. You will need the year to cut the search short. but If you know the manufacturer thats a start. as all the details need to be in the patent this may help you work out how to use it.? hope this helps.